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Shanhaiguan Pass , 15 kilometers northeast to Qinhuangdao
City , is the east end of the Ming Great Wall and an important strategic
pass of Jizhen Town Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty . It gets its
name Shanhaiguan ( Mountain , Sea and Pass ) , for it is beside
Mount Yan in the north and faces Bohai Sea in the south . As a strategic
point , which holds the key passage from North China to Northeast
China , it has been contended by military forces in history and
thus the reputation described in the following lines " There
is no other place in the world to be the key of two capitals , It
is the No.1 pass of the Ten-thousand-li Great Wall ."
Shanhaiguan was built under the supervision of Xu Da , a founding general of the Ming Dynasty , in the fourteenth year during the reign of the Ming Emperor Hongwu ( 1381 ) . At that time , the Ming Dynasty had just been established and the remaining force of Yuan Dynasty , driven out of the Great Wall but not resigned to their defeat , always sent cavalrymen to attack Central Plains . Xu Da made a far-sighted decision to build a pass and garrison troops in this strategic point . He directed over 15,000 soldiers stationing along Mount Yan to build and renovate the Great Wall in Shanhaiguan area and build the No.l Pass Under Heaven-Shanhaiguan , which has enjoyed a good name ever since then .
Shanhaiguan is a stately and magnificent pass . The pass town is
a rectangu lar one , with a perimeter of over 4 kilometers . The
solid town wall , 12 meters high and 6 meters thick , is made of
rammed earth covered by bricks . According to legend , Xu Da , very
strict in building the Great Wall , after each section of the wall
was rammed firm , would select a sturdy young soldier with strong
arms to shoot arrows from a powerful bow in a distance of one hundred
paces . If the arrows could not be shot into the wall , the wall
was proved to be up to the standard . There are gates in the east
, west , south and north of the pass town , respectively named as
" Zhendong Gate " , " Ying'en Gate " , "Wangyuan
Gate " and " Weiyuan Gate." A town moat , 15 meters
wide and 7 meters deep , surrounds the city wall . There are Luocheng
outside the east gate and the west gate , and wing cities outside
the south gate and the north gate . Many beacon towers are distributed
around the pass city . The whole architecture is very rational ,
with the primary buildings working in concert with secondary ones
, forming a well-conceived and complete military defense system
. Shanhaiguan Pass is the quintessence and model of the Great Wall
architecture .
Zhendonglou Building standing on top of the east gate , also named
as " the No.1 Pass Under Heaven " Gate Tower , enjoys
the greatest reputation as the symbol of Shanhaiguan . It was built
during the reign of the Ming Emperor Hongwu . The east gate , 12
meters high , is an enormous arched door made of bricks. "The
No.l Pass Under Heaven" Gate Tower, a two-stored building with
nine ridge poles and a double-eaved roof paved with tiles , is 13
meters high , 20 meters wide and 11 meters deep . There is a door
at the center of the lower store on the west side of the tower and
68 arrow-shooting openings on the other sides . Around the tower
are platforms filled with crenel . The whole architecture is very
splendid .
Hung high on the forehead of the upper store is a horizontal tablet
inscribed with "The No.1 Pass Under Heaven", the most
charming thing of the gate tower. The tablet made of best-quality
wood , 5.8 meters long and 1.55 meters wide , is very striking with
black characters against a White ground . The solemnity of the bold
, vigorous and dignified Chinese characters inscribed on it forms
an organic entirety with the style of the gate tower architecture
, which makes the pass even more famous . It induces reveries since
there is no signature of its writer signed at the right end corner
of the tablet as usual . According to legend , the tablet was written
by Xiao Xian , a native of Shanhaiguan , also a successful candidate
in the highest imperial examination in the reign of the Ming Emperor
Chenghua . After he finished writing and hang the tablet high up
on the gate tower , people discovered that one stroke was missing
in the Chinese character . Then Xiao Qian dipped a piece of cloth
into prepared Chinese ink and hurried it up. The cloth fell onto
the exact place where the stroke was missing , which made the tablet
perfect . This story lends more fame to the tablet .
Shanhaiguan is at the shore of a sea and by the side of a mountain
, which has made it a military town in history . There have been
many important battles crucial to the development of history merely
since the Ming and Qing Dynasty . In 1644 , Li Zicheng fought against
Wu Sangui at the bank of Shihe River in Shanhaiguan . Wu Sangui
, irritated by the loss of his favorite concubine , collaborated
with the Qing troops to defeat Li , which made the Qing troops enter
the pass very easily , and led to the downfall of the Ming Dynasty
and the establishment of the Qing Dynasty . In 1924 , during the
Second Zhi-Feng War , both parties threw in tens of thousands of
soldiers in Shanhaiguan and fought continually over one month ,
leaving innumerable bodies scattered all over the battlefield .
In the end , Feng troops won and entered the pass . In January ,
1933 , Chinese and Japanese forces fought here fiercely for two
days . Though Chinese defending soldiers fought very bravely and
even had bayonet fighting against the invaders , due to a great
disparity in number , Shanhaiguan was occupied by the Japanese at
last . This is the famous Yuguan Resistance Battle . In August ,
1945 , KMT and Chinese Communists' troops fought against the Japanese
for over 20 days , which helped the Chinese forces drive to the
outside of Shanhaiguan and this helped to control Northeast China
which was formerly occupied by the Japanese .
One kilometer east of Shanhaiguan , there is Weiyuan Fort , whose
perimeter is 614 meters and whose height is 10 meters . On its south
gate , the only gate that opens , are inscribed two Chinese characters
" Wei Yuan" . In the fort there is a high platform named
" Weiyuantai ". In four fort walls , 21 brick caves of
different sizes had been built for soldiers to hide , which are
very original in design . weiyuan Fort is built on Huanxiling (
Happy Ridge ) in Shanhaiguan. This ridge is also named as Qihuangling
( Sad and Worried Ridge ) . The reason why both " happiness
" and " sadness are used to name the same place is that
the ancient garrisoning troops felt very sad when they went out
of Sanhaiguan Pass and very happy when they came back and entered
the pass . Such emotional change reflected the soldiers' reluctance
to leave home .
In recent years , many bricks with Chinese characters relief made
by moulds have been discovered in the east Luocheng of Shanhaiguan
. These blue-grey bricks are very firm and heavy , with Chinese
characters relief on their sides . They were made in the 12th year
during the reign of the Ming Emperor Wanli ( 1584 ) . According
to the information recorded in the bricks , the troops stationed
here accounted for the majority of the Great Wall builders . The
bricks , like a notebook , not only tell who boilt the magnificent
Great Wall but also provide full and accurate material for the study
of the building system of the Great Wall. In 1980 , these bricks
were placed at an eye-catching position at the entrance of the international
exhibition held in Chicago , USA . They attracted the attention
of many experts .
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