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The days before the rain comes are the best days to visit
the ancient towns in South China's water regions. On a breezy day,
one can shoulder a camera and ramble along an old street sipping
a well-aged liquor. But however pleasing this may be, such ancient
towns are becoming fewer and fewer, so we can feel lucky that Xitang
still preserves its original look.
Xitang ancient town is in Jiashan County, Zhejiang Province. As
early as the Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods (770-221B.C.),
it was a place of strategic importance on the boundary between Wu
and Yue States, and it was thus known as the Bottom of Wu and the
Corner of Yue. During the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), it developed
into a prosperous town, and during the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368-1911),
it was known as an important town for commerce and handicrafts in
South China. Today, Xitang is like an ancient piece of jade, glittering
and translucent.
The area has a flat terrain, and the nine rivers that run through
the town divide it into eight parts. Xitang is known for its bridges,
lanes, and ceilinged corridors. There are 104 bridges of varied
structure, all from the Ming and Qing Dynasties, some looking like
rainbows over the river, and others like long flutes. Standing on
one of these bridges and watching the boats through a round opening,
one feels drawn into deep meditation on the past.
Many of the shops and houses in Xitang are built on the riversides.
There are a total of 122 lanes, long and short, wide and narrow.
The lanes are paved with stone planks, polished by the feet of pedestrians
as well as hundreds of years of weathering. Together with the black-tiled
houses along the roads, the polished stone planks bear witness to
the town's long history.
Because of the rainy climate, local residents have invented their
own style of ceilinged corridor. Each family puts a ceiling over
the stone-plank road in front of its own house, and the ceilings
connect with one another to form corridors, the longest being 1,300
meters. Nowadays, the ceilinged corridors are the main places for
outdoor activities and attract countless tourists.
Xitang is also attractive because of the easygoing lifestyle that
local residents have followed for thousands of years. Unlike the
towns of Zhouzhuang and Wuzhen, Xitang is not a bustling place (see
China Pictorial November 2001 and February 2002). People in the
town live ordinary, peaceful lives. The elderly play with their
grandchildren on bridges and in lanes, and women wash vegetables
and clothes in the rivers running beside their houses. The simple
lifestyle and peaceful atmosphere may have died out in those now
commercialized ancient towns, but they fill every lane in Xitang.
For tourists from modern metropolises, Xitang is a place to experience
a feeling of simplicity and leisure.
An advisor from the UNESCO World Heritage Center spoke highly of
Xitang after coming here. "Xitang is like the limpid and melodious
music of a flute," he said. "People need to appreciate
it with their heart."
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