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Xiangshan Park, also known as the Forest Park, is located
on the eastern sides of the Western Hills, approximately 10 kilometers
to the west of Beijing.
Due to its high elevation and dense cover of trees, spring arrives
late in the area and summer days are always pleasantly cool. The
best time to visit the park is late fall, when the smoke tree leaves
turn red. The trees make the grandest display of all. There are
also groves of apricots, pears, peaches and lilacs adding their
fragrance, and the more solemn evergreens, whose contribution to
the local beauty is unrestricted by seasonal changes.
A poem of Marshal Chen Yi reads:
The red leaves of the Western Hills
Because even redder as the frost thickens.
And an earlier poem by the Tang Dynasty poet Du Mu treats the same
subject:
Stopping in my sedan chair in the evening, I sit admiring the maple
grove;
The frost-covered leaves are redder than the flowers of spring.
In 1186 of the Jin Dynasty, the Xiangshan Temple was built here
and for a period served as the emperor's traveling lodge. In 1745,
Emperor Qianlong had a number of large halls; pagodas, memorial
archways and leisure pavilions built and changed the name of the
area to the Garden of Peacefulness (Jingyiyuan). This complex served
the famous Qing ruler as one of his summer palaces and became one
of the three favorite hills of Qianlong, beside Jade Spring Mountain
(Yuquanshan) and Longevity Hill (Wanshoushan) in the Summer Palace.
Qianlong' s elaboration of the park consisted of 28 separate vistas,
each with a poetic name: Jade China Cliff, Toad Peak, Jade Milk
Spring, Bell Separated from the Clouds, etc. Unfortunately, almost
every trace of this carefully orchestrated symphony of landscape
architecture, including the blueprints, was burned or destroyed
by the Anglo-French forces and the eight-Power Allied Forces in
the 19th and early 20th centuries. The more important extant sites
are as follows:
Jianxin Study: Built first in the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty,
this complex of buildings stands to the west of Eyeglasses Lake.
The study contains a semi-circular pond and an adjacent pavilion,
surrounded on three sides by covered galleries. Beyond the pavilion
are rockery hill and a grove of trees concealing a gazebo.
Zhaomiao (Luminous) Temple: Constructed in 1780 in the Qianlong
period, this Lamaist temple is said to have been built especially
for the Panchen Lama. In its center, a Red Terrace rises 10 meters
above the ground. On its eastern side is a memorial the archway
of white marble and glazed tile, while on the slope to the west
is a seven-story glazed pagoda, the eaves of which are hung with
tiny bells, which tinkle with even the slightest breeze.
The Tree-Covered Imperial Audience Tablet: Located to the southwest
of the Chaoyang Caves, this group of steep cliffs with numerous
trees resembles a giant hu - the rectangular tablet officials held
before themselves in the presence of the emperor.
Guijianchou (Worried Ghost) Peak: The main peak of Xiangshan Park,
Worried Ghost Peak had an elevation of 557 meters. Clouds and mist
often engulf its precipitously angled cliffs, which give the two
large stone excrescences of the peak a resemblance to incense burners.
It is from this that the name Xiangshan or Incense Mountains (and
not Fragrant Hills, as the area had been mistakenly called for generations)
is derived.
From the peak, the winding Yongding River like a white silk belt
fluttering among the western valleys, the Marco Polo Bridge on the
river, Shijing Mountain, the Summer Palace and Jade Spring Mountain
can all be seen from here, and on a clear day one can even make
out the skyline of Beijing.
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