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In 1932, when Aw Boon Haw started construction of the
Hong Kong mansion and gardens, public parks were nonexistent for
Chinese. Before China became a Socialist country in 1949, people
of lesser means had to make pilgrimages to Buddhist and Daoist monasteries
to enjoy nature. The rich, however, enjoyed pleasure gardens built
in imitation of imperial parks for hundreds of years.
Garden building was as much a spiritual activity as an artistic
one; garden builders spent decades constructing their gardens through
a cycle of sitting, listening, observing, and adding elements. Wealthy
amateurs, such as Aw Boon Haw, directed craftsmen skilled in building,
sculpting, and arranging landscape to create gardens.
When Aw Boon Haw built his mansions, pleasure gardens were integral
to his plans. That his were more ostentatious--or as some called
them, vulgar--than most was pragmatic. His gardens would serve more
purposes than their more traditional counterparts: his would educate,
serve as public parks, and promote his products. Aw Boon Haw's gardens
provided both cool resting places from summer heat and blatantly
recounted folklore and moral lessons. The mystic qualities of Daoist
retreats lay in the sculpting of the landscape, the vistas revealed,
and intimate spaces discovered only by traveling a circuitous path.
Here these features are conspicuous, however, with a caricature
brashness more along the lines of Disneyland than untamed nature.
The grottoes, tableaux, and architectural elements render the gardens
an amusement park. Colors reminiscent of Tiger Balm packaging distinguish
these gardens from other more traditional ones. It's no accident
that balustrades feature "AW" in their lattice designs
and tigers appear throughout the gardens. After all, these imprinted
the product line and family name in the minds of visitors.
There are no rules in Chinese gardens; only a duty exists to pay
attention to the important elements of the landscape: mountains,
water, architecture, and temporal change.
Chinese gardens draw from poetry and painting for inspiration.
They create a theatrical representation of nature. In fact, early
garden designers often were painters. Like a series of paintings,
a garden unfolds into carefully orchestrated scenes to which the
viewer is directed by winding paths. Each scene exists in careful
contrast to the previous and next ones. Contrasting delights and
horrors keep the visitor alert. Moods are created. All senses are
played to: enclosed and open vistas challenge the eye, wind and
water channeled through stone startle and soothe the ear, fragrant
plants titillate and bite the nose, and burnished and rough surfaces
stimulate the fingers and feet.
To the Western eye, the gardens often seem jumbled, as if too many
things are crammed into too small a space. There is no clear vantage
point from which the entirety of the garden may be seen. This is
deliberate, done to imitate the complexity of nature. No lawns interrupt
the landscape. Grassy areas are traditionally regarded as weedy
and a waste of space.
Chinese gardens are built, not planted. Structures such as bridges,
walls, pavilions, galleries, and pagodas provide touchstones to
reality by linking the fantasy of the garden to a sphere the visitor
can grasp. These elements, with walls, decorative doors, and windows,
are placed to complement the landscape and provide a familiar frame
of reference to the journey through a garden.
The gardens represent a small engineering miracle. No written plans
were made for these gardens; rather, the construction plans were
cultivated in Aw Boon Haw's imagination and transmitted verbally
to the craftsmen. Except for peeling paint and broken, delicate
plaster features, these gardens have withstood over fifty years
of blistering sun, torrential rain, and human contact. The honeycombed
Blue Mountain shows no fatigue from supporting the hundreds of tourists
who explore its recesses every day of the year.
From inside the mountain, windows in the caves frame landscape
"paintings" Aw Boon Haw saw: a finely shaped rock, a piece
of a railing, the house, the opposing hillside, a tiger, the harbor.
Up close as the concrete surfaces undulate and change colors, the
visitor is transfixed by the magic qualities the rocks seem to possess.
The concrete rocks mimic in wild caricature the elaborate shapes
of rocks thrust from the earth. The sense here is of being inside
a painting. Ledges that form rocklike benches provide rest stops
for quiet meditation. the caves represent a personal magic too:
in nature the tiger (Aw Boon Haw) and leopard (Aw Boon Par) needed
caves to ensure the security of their territory. At the foot of
the mountain, a tiger atop a rock pedestal conspicuously stands
guard.
Past this mountain, a series of grottoes retell legends and proverbs.
As if on a monk's journey, where truths are to be discovered from
nature, these grottoes tucked in the hillside present history and
moral lessons for the traveler to digest. Aw Boon Haw's placement
of figures in reference to each other exactly matches the stories,
but it is the liveliness of the statues' gestures that brings the
stories to life and makes their messages pertinent today. Every
available inch of land is encrusted with some feature or scene,
and the views are infinite in this jam-packed space.
Guarding the neighborhood from the top of the site is the Tiger
Pagoda. Until high-rise building were built in Hong Kong in the
1960s, the Tiger Pagoda was one of Hong Kong's tallest structures
and a key site. Because the pagoda was so impressive, some have
tried to attach special significance to it. Rumors that the pagoda
housed a relic of the Buddha or ashes of monks and nuns were popular
but untrue.
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